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Climbing Workouts

Madness Workout

Isometric Strength and Explosive Power

High intensity, high volume | 10 exercises | Advanced | Self-paced

Do it in your local climbing gym

Exercise by exercise, this workout takes you to the point of exhaustion. Warm up well and stop if you feel any sharp finger pain.

1Cliffhangers on Jugs

Max movements | 3 sets

A great warm-up that engages your arms and core. Pick one big jug and dead hang for 5 seconds on each arm, then switch. If you use this drill as a warm-up, avoid getting pumped: release the hold as soon as you feel your forearms swelling.

2High Heel Ninjas

Max movements | 3 sets

On a boulder or system wall, choose two main handholds and two high, large footholds. Swing from side to side and stick a heel on a foothold. Pull with your arms and legs, reaching as high as you can, and hold a 5-second lock-off. Repeat until failure.

3Roof Training: Blenders

Max reps | 3 sets

On the roof, choose a large jug you can dead hang from. "Scoop" your body, trying to touch your biceps to your belly as shown in the video. Repeat until failure.

4Double Catcher

Max reps | 3 sets

Choose two start holds and add a higher handhold. Move both hands from the lower holds to the higher hold at the same time. Repeat until failure, aiming for 4 to 6 double catches.

5Pull-ups with Kettlebells

Max pull-ups | 3 sets

On a pull-up bar, lift a kettlebell with your toes. Choose a weight that lets you do at least 6 pull-ups and 6 knee lifts with the kettlebell.

6Three Points: Side Heels

Max movements | 3 sets

On a boulder or system wall, take a position with two poor handholds and one heel hook. It should be hard enough that you cannot hold it for more than 20 seconds. This drill builds body tension and finger strength.

7Friction Locks

Max movements | 3 sets

On a flat or slightly tilted wall, grab one main handhold, lock your arms and smear one foot against the wall. A great exercise for body control when no footholds are available.

8Short Edge Dead Hangs

Up to 12 seconds | 5 sets per hand

On a fingerboard, choose an edge you can dead hang from for a maximum of 12 seconds.

920-Movement Circuit

Max movements | 3 sets

On a boulder or system wall, set a 20-movement circuit where every move is consistent and hard. Do not include rest points, so you flow through the climb. Set a circuit you can complete at least 80% of the time.

10Bar Locks and Knee Lifts

Max movements | 3 sets

On a bar, pull up with one arm, aiming to reach as high as possible, and hold a 5-second lock-off on each hand. Repeat until failure.

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