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The approach to this training program is to perform a combination of exercises to train raw finger strength while also being able to apply it in real movement while climbing. The program gives you a variety of exercises so you will gain practical finger strength without getting bored. Your goals for strength should be based on your projects, but you can also define a grade that you want to accomplish. A goal can be to hold on a 10 mm edge for 10 seconds. or “to do 10 rows on the campus board in a row” Goals should be measurable, testable and applicable to different parts of your climbing: projects, a new onsight grade or competition. The chart below shows the energy types targeted as the main objective.
Buy this manualIn the context of fitness, the technical definition of power is “the time rate of doing work,” which is basically the speed at which you can apply force. It’s all about explosive movement, and there are many ways to go about increasing it, but two of the most common are power circuits and intense, short, route climbing. To increase power by circuit training, the typical advice is to perform multiple sets of 12-24 explosive reps using 75 to 90 percent of your 1RM (repetition to max). You’ll need to rest for 2 to 3 minutes between sets to allow for sufficient power recovery. You must periodize your sessions so you don’t burn out, over train or risk injury.
Buy this manualThis training manual will present a variety of exercises and routines that you can follow to get an increase in endurance. In this manual, you define endurance as any climb that takes longer than 5 minutes on the wall, or approximately, 40 to 80 moves. These types of routes push your anaerobic lactic threshold and you feel a long lasting pump that builds up slowly. This training approach uses a combination of exercises that ensure you stay on the wall for extended periods of time but also for a greater number of moves. You will be given the tools to create your own training routes and circuits targeting various types of movements and forcing you to go from one style into the other within the same session. This approach is appropriate for any climbing season of the year.
Buy this manualVeteran climbers will tell you that climbing technique is all about footwork, this is not far from true. Climbers often think that climbing is all about upper body strength but as you aim to send harder routes and prevent injury, a strong upper body isn’t enough. Strong footwork can increase the efficiency of your climbing, so you can do harder moves in a row for a longer time, and take the stress off your fingers and biceps.
Buy this manualFollowing the core training program is simple, all you have to do is understand the key training concepts, mimic the exercises, and follow along. Each core exercise targets a specific climbing skill or movement. The core training system starts by you picking up the drills and exercises suited to your goals. You may decide in putting together a core-exclusive training program, or use the methods to complement any other strength or endurance-based climbing training system.
Buy this manualWhat you'll love about this program is having your workout plan daily with different exercises everyday and every week, makes it less of a routine and you workout different muscles all the time.
You can download and print, write over, or keep it on your phone and use it at the gym. No trees killed, no mailman arriving, you download it and that's it. Do you rather use a tablet or your laptop? no problem you're covered for all devices, operating systems and platforms.
Do it at your own pace and modify if needed. No single climbing skills training program will include all of the workout breakdowns and instructions in this book; climbers get quick, easy access to the methods recommended to meet their particular climbing projects.
When you finish the 3rd week of stamina training, you will be looking forward to the next workout.
You can do the workouts literally on any climbing gym, so there is no excuses to not get the workouts done. Exercises are explained through sequential instructions and photos to ensure that readers will learn the safest and most effective technique.
These are the exercises, programs, and protocols being used at the highest levels of sport and performance. The manuals include key points, climbing objectives, and learning aids including key exercises and a balanced order of drills provide a structure to help climbers conceptualize the information and reinforce fundamental facts. The manuals also can provide practical application of scientific concepts that can be used by strength, endurance and mental game in real-world climbing settings, making the information immediately relatable and usable.
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