Mastering Muscular Endurance Training for Climbing

In strength training, muscular endurance refers to the number of repetitions of a single exercise you can do without stopping for a rest.

On a climbing context, examples include how many times you can do a full pull-up on a 1/2 inch crimp, a campus move, or a triceps push with a light-to-moderate intensity before breaking form.

The specific type of muscular endurance used during cardiovascular fitness activities such as running, swimming, or cycling is usually called cardiovascular endurance or cardiorespiratory endurance and is different from the strength training definition. Endurance training for these types of physical activities builds the energy systems of the body, the muscle fibers, and capillaries that can sustain long periods of exercise, such as running a marathon or cycling a 100-miler.

Measuring Muscular Endurance

The American College of Sports Medicine recommends muscular endurance testing as well as muscular strength testing when you start a program of strength training. The results will help a trainer set the right intensity and loads for your exercises.

The pullup-on-edge test is often performed as a measure of upper body muscular endurance, also engaging your finger tendons which are essential for climbing.

You do as many on-edge pull-ups as you can before you break form. This may also be a timed test to see how many you can perform in a minute. You can compare how your performance matches up with previous and future tests you make. By tracking this number over time, you can see increases or decreases in climbing-applicable muscular endurance.

Improving Muscular Endurance

To improve muscular endurance. The weight load should be less than 50 percent of the repetition maximum (the maximum weight you could use for one repetition of the exercise). This is a light to moderate intensity load. You perform a relatively high number of repetitions, 15 to 25 per set, for one or two sets. Resistance training with moderate to low weights and high repetitions has been shown by most studies to be the most effective method to improve local muscular endurance and high-intensity (or strength) endurance.

Exercise Selection for Muscular Endurance: The exercises you choose should work large muscle groups or multiple muscle groups to fatigue, which stimulates changes in the muscles that will build endurance. A muscle endurance program can use a variety of exercises, including those using one or two limbs or one or two joints. Programs can develop sequencing combinations for novice, intermediate, and advanced training.

Loading and Volume: The evidence shows that loading is multidimensional and different programs can be used:

Novice and intermediate training: Relatively light loads should be used in the range from 10 to 15 repetitions.

Advanced training: Various loading strategies can be used for multiple sets per exercise in the range of 10 to 25 repetitions per set or more, in a periodized, progressive program leading to higher overall volume.

Rest Periods: Short rest periods should be used for muscle endurance training. For example, one to two minutes for high-repetition sets (15 to 20 repetitions or more), and less than one minute for moderate (10 to 15 repetitions) sets. Circuit training is good for building local muscular endurance, and the rest periods should only fill the time it takes to move from one exercise station to another.

Frequency: The frequency of training for muscular endurance is similar to that for building larger muscles:

Beginners: Two to three days each week when training the entire body.

Intermediate training: Three days per week for total-body workouts and four days per week if using split routines for upper and lower body workouts.

Advanced training: Use a higher frequency of four to six days per week if the workouts are split by muscle group.

Repetition Velocity: Different speeds of contraction can be used based on the number of repetitions:

Intentionally slow velocities can be used when performing a moderate number of repetitions (10 to 15).

Moderate to fast velocities are more effective when you train with a larger number of repetitions, such as 15 to 25 or more.

A Word From Climbing Workouts:

Muscle endurance training must be related to your target climbing style, whether it’s doing speed pullups on jugs or shorter micro-contractions using smaller holds. You likely have limited time for training each week, and you have to consider whether you spend it doing specific muscle endurance training or practicing on specific climbing routes or sequences.

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